Search for multiple opinion. Many people will believe they know the clear answer but have they actually considered their model? Probably not. I have weighed two of my travelers on Federal DOT vehicle machines (don’t ask me how) and they certainly were both a few hundred kilos on the manufacturer’s explained weight.
Be reasonable too. Your van will most likely never get any lighter. A lot of people often gather more amenities and the RV just maintains finding heavier. Some basic principles use here if you are looking (sounds like you got that new camper, eh?) for a new hauler. You know the true weight of your fall in. Make sure the vehicle features a cargo volume at the very least similar compared to that number. Brakes, suspension, motor and axles are typical sized to work within this rating.
If you plan to pull a trailer take that weight into consideration also. The truck language (hitch) fat must NOT put the vehicle around it’s ranked axle capabilities for front and rear in addition to combined. Your vehicle will even have a Major Combined Weight Score, which can be the total fat of vehicle, all cargo and all towed vehicles.
Motor & Transmission guidelines are actually the subject of another report and mainly a subject of personal preference. My selection is a 6 tube diesel engine with a 6 speed transmission. This provides me a great bargain between power, gasoline mileage and driveability. I also like the ability to use an fatigue brake with the diesel to help with the stopping, specially if you find number trailer behind.
Does your vehicle and van combination “stone and move” as you corner or when huge rigs pass? This is really common and more distinct with the newer campers that can be extremely large and top heavy. My new camper, with an elevated floor and a lot of head space, is an excellent base larger compared to 2003 van I previously owned, which was in no way a low-rider. Also, many of today’s 4×4 trucks certainly are a few inches higher compared to the older trucks.
Mix this with the longer back rises mounted on all the newer Truck Camper and your camper can actually swing in the breeze. Also double rear wheel pickups are not immune. The vehicle human body sheets from side to side over the axle housing so the excess group of back wheels does not entirely repair the problem. How to proceed?
There are a number of probable remedies. Almost all trucks may benefit from rear air tool springs. If you are fortunate to truly have a truck that welcomes air bags mounted outside of the truck frame rails, they are able to considerably lower the body roll as well as support bring the weight of the camper. Inboard secured air springs is likely to be some assistance with the human body throw but their major job is to hold a few of the weight.
Air rises also can help stage a camper that is weightier using one side. That’s a common condition today with big appliances, generators and slide-outs. My personal van has all three on the passenger area so it certainly leans over. By working about 20 PSI more on that side the camper levels out.
Does your truck have rear’contact clog” springs? Most 1 load trucks do have these as well as many of the new HD 3/4 heap trucks. They’re the short, manufacturer overload springs that only produce contact when the truck is heavily loaded. Since they are short and rigid, if you place them to work sooner they really produce a difference.